Sunday, January 4, 2015

Uzbekistan Part 2


Samarkand and Bukhara, Uzbekistan:  

Uzbekistan was a really fascinating place to visit, and I'm sorry it took so long for me to write the second installment of this blog.  Not writing about Uzbekibekibeki is  due to me being a total slacker, plus I did not want to steal the limelight from Islam Karimov's daughter, Gulnara.  Gulnara Karimova got headlines in August again for being a jailed princess being held captive by her dictator dad, who seems jealous of her.  Despite being 77 years old, Islam Karimov wants to run again to be president, which works out well when all parties allowed support your policies were 'elected' to parliament.  What Gulnara fails to say is she was equally repressive toward Uzbek citizens, but only saying something now that she is under 'house arrest'.  Ah, such minor details.  

Since the year 2015 looks likes there will not be any surprising headlines coming out from one of the top 10 corrupt countries in the world, I'm cool to publish this blog.   
Gulnara is probably not looking as fabulous as she is in this picture, or in her music videos, such as this one with Julio Iglesias below, which is great background music for reading this blog issue.  



Bukhara and Samarkand are two places I probably never would have gotten to visit if it were not for Matt.  Because of the location and how reclusive Uzbekistan can be, Samarkand and Buhkara are not the easist to visit, but I think they're worth getting to at some point in your lifetime.  Samarkand has made top 50 places you have to visit, but both cities are former Silk Road cities that have been restored to what they used to look like.  Despite the July heat, I was honored to have two great Russian tour guides who led Matt and I around both towns and discovered some of the history.  


Samarkand:  

A city of about 500,000 settled somewhere in the 7th century B.C., it is the second largest city in Uzbekistan, and about a two hour high speed train ride from Tashkent, and very near the Tajikistan border.  A UNESCO heritage site, it is one of Uzbekistan's most glorious cities, and was at it's glory during the 14th-15th centuries during the Timurid era, who based their capital in Samarkand.    




Gur Emir Mausoleum:  The final resting place of Timur, also known as Tamalane.  He was the founder of the Timurid dynasty, which ruled all of Central Asia, Persia, and parts of India and Saudi Arabia in the 14th and 15th centuries.  This was built after his death in 1404.  




Gur Emir Mausoleum




Gur Emir Mausoleum










Gur Emir Mausoleum Tomb








Gur Emir Mausoleum




Gur Emir Mausoleum








In front of the Samarkand Registan.  This was the heart of ancient Samarkand during the Timurid era.  There was a public square, where people gathered to hear proclamations from the emir, and to witness executions.  It is surrounded by three madrasahs.  






Sher-dor Madrasah, Lion's Gate, Samarkand Registan.  


Close up view of the Lions






Courtyard of the Madrasah where people sell souvenirs in the shade. 


Courtyard of the Madrasah








Sher-dor Madrasah















Ulug Beg Madrasah


Tilya Kori Madrasah






Babalicious Uzbek Style:  Yes, it's a fuzzy picture to protect innocent Uzbek babas.  :)


Ceiling inside of of the rooms of the madrasah


Ulug Beg Madrasah


Uzbek tourists who wanted a picture with Matt and I.  In Uzbekistan, I got the five star treatment, and was treated really well.  Note how Coca Cola gets everywhere, but in Uzbekistan there are only certain sizes of Coke and Pepsi.  




Bibi Khayim Mosque:  Built between 1399 and 1404, this was one of the Islamic world's biggest mosques which crumbled for centuries before collapsing in an 1897 earthquake




Bibi Khayim Mosque








Ulug Beg Observatory:  Ulug Beg was the grandson of Amir Timur, king and renowned astronomer in the 15th century was way ahead of his contemporaries in his astronomical studies.  This was his observatory where he made observatory, where he made his scientific observations.  He spent more time studying science than being a king.  The sexton was placed underground to protect it from earthquakes, and Ulug Beg's calculations were fantastic.  


Outside of the Ulug Beg Observatory restored:   it was destroyed by religious fanatics in 1449, who thought their king was not being virtuous by studying the astronomy and practicing Islam. It was rediscovered in 1908.  


Rug Making:  One of the places where silk rugs are made in Samarkand.  Depending on the rug, it can take 3-18 months to make a rug, and it is all hand stitched.  Girls work by hand and are paid a decent salary at this facility.  It has been visited by many dignitaries, including Hillary Clinton.  











Shah-i-Zinda:  The tombs of Timur and his family.  Built between the 11th and 19th centuries, this place has mausoleums and some of the best tile work I've ever seen.  

Shah-i-Zinda






Shah-i-Zinda






Shah-i-Zinda













Babalicious at Shah-i-Zinda




Bukhara:  


This is the fifth largest city in Uzbekistan, settled in the 5th century B. C., and also a UNESCO World Heritage site for being one of the cities on the Silk Road.  To get there, Matt got us a private car, which drove us the 180 kilometers between the two cities.  The road between the two cities would make one proud to drive on any main road in Bulgaria, and easily beats how badly Goodrich Road had to get before they did any repairs at all.  Enjoy the pictures and the commentary.




Caravan pitstop along the road between Bukhara and Samarkand from the 11th century.  


The remains of the caravan stop along the road.  



While this was one billboard along the road, there are tons of propaganda slogans like this one throughout Uzbekistan, just like the communist days, but better.  They all state something like how working for the state can make Uzbekistan great.  Pretty much, this is same similar nonsense Fox News presents as news.  


One of the canals in Bukhara.  


The Lyab-i Hauz pond compound.  Built in the 16th and 17th Centuries, this is one of the few pond areas the Soviets did not destroy from Bukhara during their reign.  The two phoenixes are an important symbol to the Lyab-i Huaz, which is where commerce happened in this Silk Road city.  
Up close view of the phoenixes.  



The Mullah Nasreddin on his donkey.  From the 13th century, he is known in tales for being wise, funny, or foolish, but there is always an anecdote with his tales.  


The old markets of Bukhara, selling mostly touristic stuff, and not Silk Road materials.  


Magoki Attori Mosque:  The oldest mosque in Central Asia dating from the 12th century, and the name means mosque in the pit.  Before the mosque was built, this site had the remains of Buddhist Temple, and a Zoroastrian temple.  It was used by Jews as a synagogue in the evenings until the 16th century.  It was destroyed by an earthquake in 1860 and it remains were dug up in 1930.  


Magoki Attori Mosque




Magoki Attori Mosque


Mir-i Arab Madrasah


Mir-i Arab Madrasah



Mir-i Arab Madrasah, which was built in 1535-1536 and still operates for boys and girls.  Also a rare oddity, since Islam Karimov isn't exactly the most religious guy, yet sees the importance of Islam in keeping his job.  







Tokis of Bukhara:  These are the marketplaces where money, jewels, and silk were exchanged.




Kalon Minaret.  Built in the 1127, over 45 meters tall, and surrounded by 208 columns and 288 domes.  A very impressive site that I was lucky to be at by myself, Matt, and the tour guide for the most part.












The only other tourists in the square, who disappeared quickly due to the heat.  


Matt and I got the Owen Davis treatment and the kid wanted his picture taken with us.




Kalon Mosque, rebuilt to its former glory.  






At the Kalyan Minaret from the 12th century, which because of the heat meant Matt and I were the only ones there in July.  The minaret was the only thing not destroyed by Genghis Khan as he razed the rest of the city in his conquests of Central Asia and many other places.  


Because of the heat, I had the courtyard ALL to myself.


Really, there was NO ONE else there.  


One of the insides of the columns surrounding the Kalon Mosque


Walls of the Bukhara Ark Fortress


Ark Fortress of Bukhara:  Built in the 5th century, this is where the Emir lived with his family, and most of the city resided in the old times.  The Emir resided there and it was used as a fortress until the Soviets burned down the wooden sections of it in 1920.  


Gate to the Ark Fortress


Inside the Ark Fortress


Local street with a Spiderman costume near the Ark Fortress




View of the of Bukhara from the fortress entrance.  It was also a great place with shade.  




Matt's hotel room at Hotel Amelie.  It seems someone at the hotel had a sense of humor when they gave the straight man this room for the night, hehehehe.  


Yes, there is an Uzbek dish called Jiz, which made me act like Beavis and Butthead and giggle hysterically for 30 minutes.  


Sunset from the cool restaurant serving Jiz. 


Here is what Jiz looks like. It was really delicious.



The warning on Matt's gate to his house.  God bless the U.S.A. for put such warnings in a place where a moving gate is the least of your worries.  
Amelie's first love of the Afghan wool hand stitched rug with silk embroidery stitched in by hand I bought in Bukhara.  While it may be the centerpiece of our living room, NO ONE is allowed to be on the rug besides the cat of she gets really upset.   In Bukhara, I paid $300 USD for this rug, but George and I saw something similar in Vienna sell for $1800 Euros


Sunday, December 28, 2014

Airline Ratings: The Viewpoints of a Somewhat Frequent Flier

Hey Everyone!

Yes, it's been an extremely long time since I wrote a blog, and there are many reasons why I have not written, which include:

1.  Teaching wild fourth grade squirrels.
2.  Being enslaved every Sunday night to the NFL game package and playing fantasy football.  I'm still bitter I lost in the semi-finals because of what I call 'Buffalo sports' syndrome, where you find a way to lose even though you're supposed to win.
3.  Introducing George to American culture specialties such as Oprah, Hoarders, and Beyond Scared Straight.
4.  Watching too much stuff on Netflix and Amazon Prime.
5.  Finding other masterful ways to waste time as only a true slacker could.

Since I have over TWO WEEKS off for the Christmas and New Year's holidays and I have a staycation here in Sofia, there is no excuse not to write a blog or two this week to end 2014, and to start 2015.  In fact, there may be 2-3 blogs, if I'm brave enough to publish the U.S. Consulate and how to improve the American Citizen Services here in Sofia.

Having traveled a decent amount each year, I have used a lot of airlines, so why not rate them during my long breaks.  As one friend puts it, we're all cattle when flying in economy, so I look for certain things when flying cattle class on airlines.  When I travel, I look for how much hassle there is flying the airlines, quality of food, entertainment on long flights, and if flights get cancelled or diverted.  American carriers (Delta, American, United) are not rated very highly.  In fact, I now avoid American carriers like the plague when I fly back to the U.S. every summer.  Every spring, I search religiously to find flights to the United States not run by Delta, United, or American, because I find the companies themselves rather scummy towards how they treat their staff and clients.  I fly them in the United States because I must.

Turkish Airlines(8 out of 10):  

Love them, despite all the cheesy Kobe Bryant and Lionel Messi commercials.  They have great flights with great service.  Flew them to Uzbekistan this past summer, and to Jordan.  The pluses of Turkish Air is that they pretty much fly anywhere in the world, give you decent food on flights, and provide good entertainment on longer flights.  Their airport is big, but it's not too troublesome to transfer through most of the time.  For Americans, you do not need a visa if you're transferring in the airport.  There is also a hotel where you can sleep off hours, but the only downside is taking flights during the middle of the night to reach places where you arrive at 3 A.M.

Bulgaria Air (9 out of 10):  

What????  Bulgaria Air has a 9 out of 10 score?  I'm not trying to be biased, but they're a really great airline in terms of reliability and getting you places, without charging you too much money.  Bulgaria Air provides decent direct flights throughout Europe, and for reasonable prices.  I love how I am allowed to carry 30 kilograms of luggage.  Last year, I found decent last minute tickets which allowed George and I to see Paul in Vienna, without paying tons of money.  They're not the fancy airline, but they never proclaim themselves to be fancy.  You receive a simple sandwich, water, and beverage of your choice on any of their flights.  The planes are new, and you can find a cheap flight comparable to Wizz Air if you know where you're going ahead of time.  Sometimes, it's cheaper to do Bulgaria Air than Wizz Air or Easy Jet.  This summer, we got upgraded to business class from Malaga to Sofia, where I had unlimited wine on the three hour flight.  It's too bad they don't fly direct to New York or Chicago, because I would brave JFK just to fly them direct to the United States.

Austrian Airlines(7.5 out of 10):  
Like the airline a lot, but dislike transferring in Vienna when there is a short connection time and you're at C/D and have to go to F or G.  On a cross-continental flight, there is great food and an awesome entertainment center for you to use.  However, the Vienna airport is a huge pain to make a transfer.  Why?  They have a lot of unnecessary security checks and sometimes you need to go through a security check twice to get to your flight, which is really stupid when you've been flying and already been screened.  Once, I get, but twice is ridiculous.  It's almost as if they think they're passengers take bomb making classes in the airport kiosks.

There is also a really long path to transfer from C/D to G areas in the Vienna airport, and you feel like cattle if you're going to Eastern Europe.  And the C gate area is pretty much the worst to get stuck in during a long layover.  There isn't much there, and thank god there's free wi fii.  This August, there were 30 flights leaving for the C gate within a two hour period, and we had to wait in the security checkpoint for over an hour.  This was the second security checkpoint for me, as Vienna's airport isn't setup well if you transfer to a non-schengen zone destination.  Then, the only area that seems friendly is the F and duty free area, and you might not necessarily get to those areas if you have a layover there.  The F and G areas have nice areas with free wi-fii though, which is nice for a layover.  The C area of the airport is just dreadful, and there's literally nothing there if you've got 3-4 hours to kill.  If it were not for the free wi-fii, one might have found

Lufthansa:  (7 out of 10):  
Really like the airline, and the airports in Munich and Frankfurt are much more sensible than Vienna.  Lufthansa has decent food and great entertainment on cross-continental flights.  Plus, the seats are usually comfortable for a short guy.  Overall, a pretty solid airline, but no free wifii at the airports brings down the score a bit, as well as the time it takes in Frankfurt to get through the airport.

Qatar Airways (9 out of 10)

I love Qatar Airways.  I have only flown them once going to Thailand, but economy felt more like business class on the flight from Doha to Bangkok.  There was more room in the seats, and the entertainment selection was incredible.  The food was a proper meal, and they had a pretty efficient way of handling transfers.  Even on the short hop from Sofia to Bucharest, we got a sandwich.  Granted, they can do this because they have free jet fuel supported by the government, but they treat you with style.  So want to try and fly to DC for business class with them.   I almost wanted to rate them a 10, but I've only flown them once, but right now the cheapest flight from Sofia to Washington for George and I is via Doha, so we might be coming to D.C. via Doha next summer.  :)


Air France (6 out of 10):  
Air France isn't that bad, even though the French go on strike twice a month.  Flying into Paris is a nightmare for a connecting flight, which totally knocks down their score.  When they're not on strike, they seem incapable of transferring passengers efficiently on trans-continental flights.  Airports I avoid at all costs are London Heathrow, Paris, and JFK.

One time I flew into Paris with a very long layover, and there were major delays on transfers causing the place where I was transferring to be congested and be standing room only.  They failed to stop the escalator, or get buses running.  The best part is that they only had buses transferring to Terminal 1, not Terminal 2, and half the people didn't understand the petite woman speaking Terminal One in French.  The poor petite woman stood no chance at the foreigner's ability to completely ignore French, and actually caused more chaos as she kept shouting Terminal Un.  Naturally, this led to a lot of church giggling from me as some people missed flights simply because they didn't know the number one in French.

British Airways (6 out of 10):  
I have not flown British Air in almost 10 years, but they're decent.  The only problem is flying into Heathrow, which I did once when they were doing a luggage strike.  It's pretty much a nightmare and there's nothing nice about it, and they're never prepared for winter and acted shocked when they get any amount of snowfall, even though they tell you they're prepared.  Heathrow is worse than dealing with Southern states, because at least you know they're not prepared for snow, whereas Heathrow will show you all the equipment they've got, and then don't seem to know how to use it.

United Airlines (3.5  out of 10):  
To me, United is like the best of the worst in America, but it's rather a toss up.  I am sucker for the Gershwin music they played on all their commercials.  None of the American carriers really are that good, except for Southwest or Airtran.  I fly United because I have to get to Buffalo in the summer, and they're a tad better than flying Delta.  They're not the most organized, and I've had to wait in Buffalo an extra day two out of the past four years for dubious reasons.  However, they're easier to deal when re-booking a flight than Delta.

Delta Airlines (1 out of 10):
 Pretty much, I would only fly Delta if I absolutely have to, and they remind of of Carol from Little Britain.  The computer says no, the late flight attendants say no, the food says no, and the reasons for delayed flights say no.  Their flights across the pond or to South America have been absolutely terrible, and the customer service is just plain awful.  The food on transcontinental flights is unappetizing and the fake plastic food might be a better choice.  I feel like Delta and American Airlines have a competition to see which airline could be worse, although I haven't flown on American in ages.

Uzbekistan Airways (5 out of 10):
 I only flew them once from Bukhara to Tashkent, and they were nice to me even though I was an idiot and lost my boarding pass in the airport.  Sure, the seat moved around, but I had a nice nap on the short flight I took with them.  They served you drinks, were nice to you, and it was easy to get baggage.  This easily catapults them above Delta, American, and United Airlines

Southwest Airlines (7 out of 10):  
I flew Southwest a lot traveling between BWI and Buffalo, and a few other flights.  It may be a low cost airline, but it is nothing like a Ryan Air or Wizz Air.  You know what you are getting with Southwest, and the rules are the rules.  Southwest staff have always been great, and try to instill humor, especially when there is bad weather.  I remember Southwest as being who work there have always been great.

Wizz Air (4.5 out of 10):  


Wizz Air is the low-cost airline which serves most of Eastern Europe with cheaper flights throughout Europe.  As long as you follow their rules, you're fine.  Wizz is not as cruel as Ryan Air, but you need to follow the rules.  At times, you can get a cheaper flight to places, but sometimes you can't so you really need to pay attention to baggage fees, seating fees, and whatever fee you want.  For recent history, I've had cheaper flights on Bulgaria Air than on Wizz Air for the destinations I've gone to, but that's not always the case.  There is an optional fee for more legroom and priority boarding, which is nice for a longer flight, because they do cram people in there and seats are cramped.

The score becomes a 4.5 as there is no A, B, or C boarding like you have on Southwest.  And when you're on a flight to Bulgaria, this brings out the worst in people, as the boarding of a Wizz Air plane becomes a Mad Max movie.  There are times I wonder if Wizz overbooks the flights and only the strongest or smartest get to board the plane to Sofia, while the others are left to wait for a goat cart to take them home.  No Bulgarian dares to buy any food on the plane(those who buy are glared at with contempt), and sometimes toilet paper is a privilege, not a guarantee.  Normally polite people become ruthless to scramble for the one spot on the plane where they think is best.  On a flight to Barcelona to Sofia, I somehow got there early and had a lot of time to kill, so I squatted my place in line to be one of the first five people.  When boarding, I got glared at by every unsympathetic person as I let a mother and her 2 year old child into line.  I growled back at the line to stop being heartless, and they begrudgingly allowed the woman to get on the plane.   Humanity was restored for a brief moment, before descending into apocolyptic hysteria to board the plane once I entered the line.

Iberia Air  (4 out of 10):  
I have only flown them once, and it seemed like the most disorganized airline ever.  Boarding was a disaster in Madrid, and staff were scrambling around trying to get the plane.  They let everyone on board at once, because the woman at the gate spoke so rapidly no one understood her in English or Spanish.  While we got there in one piece, the thing that stunk is that EVERYTHING cost money on the flight, even a glass of water.  Good thing we brought water onto the plane and it was only a short flight, as we weren't expecting Ryan Air of Wizz Air food policies.  To me, Iberia stays in business simply because it's in Spain, and they're the only game in town flying between cities in Spain.


Lot Airlines:  (6 out of 10):  

If you're going to Warsaw, LOT has pretty decent service.   Easy airport to transfer into, and probably the smallest airport to have flights to the U.S. and Canada.  While LOT has a menu of food in which you must pay, they do offer you water and a wafer on short flights, and the food prices are reasonable and not inflated.

Thanks for those who really wanted to geek out on airline ratings.  Hopefully, this will get me tons of press and business class upgrades for Qatar and Bulgaria Air, but all it will probably get is grief from the American airlines I rated poorly.