Prom 2015: Go Big or Go Home

Good evening peeps.   Summer vacation is underway, and I have spent the first week of vacation spending time with great friends visiting, cleaning out and rearranging stuff in the soon the be fabulous classroom, and spending four days with a sore throat and minor stomach flu.  That's right, Mr. Joseph got sick either from students, staff, or part of some X-file plan to pay me back for writing about driving in Bulgaria.   Since I am feeling a tad better after feeling like leftover rubbish even the gypsy horse carts pass by, I am finally writing the issue I've been meaning to write about:  Prom.

A high school prom may be quite the event in the United States, so of course Bulgarians have decided to taking celebrating prom to cray cray levels.  As I was speaking with one Bulgarian friend, she said there were things we'd do at 18-19 that we'd never do when we're 21 or older.  In Bulgaria, that is definitely the case.  There is the strong belief (especially outside of Sofia) that the end of high school is the high point of your life, and afterward your life will pretty much amount to nothing.  While it could be watching too much My Sweet 16 on MTV, Bulgarians really 'go big or go home' when it comes to prom season.

Prom in Bulgaria:

For a prom, it is not unusual for some families to take out a $3,000 - 6,000 Euro loan to pay for prom expenses for their son or daughter.  This is what 3,000 - 6,000 Euros could get you for a prom dress.   In the past few years, prom has been about showing your friends that you family has the funds to purchase the most fabulous dress you could ever want to wear, even if this dress is never easy to wear.

If you think the dresses are extreme, so are the cars.  In the U.S., you get a limo, but here it is you must get the fanciest car possible, and limos aren't the thing to drive around town hanging out the windows.  ,It is quite common for people to pay lots of money to rent out an expensive car for the evening.  This girl arriving to prom in a Lamborgini is very normal.  So are people counting to 12 and dancing away in the streets.

Prom season during the Peace Corps was nowhere near as pricey, as people didn't have the ability to take out large loans to do such things.  In the past 7-8 years, people want to show off and do, even if it puts them in debt forever.  In small towns, the prom is one of the big events of the year, and people will line up to take pictures of the outrageous dresses, cars, and drunken debachary.  Three years ago, George and I observed prom weekend in Plovdiv, and there were about a thousand people milling about the Princess hotel to see how cray cray people were willing to do, and they delivered like Dominos Pizza.

Sadly, I cannot find the pictures, but the videos below give you an idea out of some of the outrageously funny things we saw that weekend.  I strongly suggest we do a May 2016 prom trip to Pazardjik or Pernik next year.  Sure there is the Rose Festival and Kukeri, but how can we miss out on ALL THIS:

Arriving to Prom in a Tractor

Arrive to Prom in Style

Prom on Journalist Square May 25th, 2015:

This year, I was fortunate to have a high school class or two from Pernik has one of their stops actually be on Journalist's Square.  It's an unusual stop for a group out of town, as usually we're just a stop at 1am or 2am for drunken high school students to get alcohol for their after party.  New in 2015, people actually need to stay in cars, and cannot hang out like mad fools driving 180 kph driving around town.

While I was woken up from a nap and thrilled, it was not as funny the call I got from Rebecca, our librarian at school.  There was a 70s/birthday party that some people got quite 'happy'.  Rebecca was having a peaceful Sunday hibernation, only to be disturbed by serious honking and expensive cars.

Last year we were the drunken pit stop, so I was thrilled to grab shots of these Pernik kiddos celebrating their graduation.  Enjoy the picture show and the commentary, and notice how the prom dresses are much classier than they were a few years ago (I guess no one wants to be an internet sensation anymore).

The first signs something was going to happen on the square when a Corvette honks and parks on the street with three ladies wearing classy dresses.  

This son was driven by mom in the family Audi.  Kudos for not spending money on an outrageous car and for driving the family car.  Sadly, mom wasn't the best at parking, and I thought her car was going to be taken out by the 12 tram.  

10 tram driver in the back easily got behind schedule due to the entourage from Pernik.  The bell ringing on that tram lasted a good bit of time, all to no avail.   

The lead girls (the girl in the turquoise dress was riding in the Corvette, so her family had money, or took out quite the loan) heading their class up the hill to either Forno Cippolini or to play board games with Boris and Marinella.  I am going with board games.

The photographer recording events of the evening.  I was quite impressed that all the girls were in somewhat classy dresses, and there were no hoochie mama dresses to be found.  

The ceremony of counting to `12 on the walk up to play board games with Boris and Marinella.  I sure hope they had enough wine and whiskey for them.

The still sober crowd walking up the hill.  

The Pernik peeps even had a camera man to record the night's festivities.  That way, when they're 40, they can relive the memories with their families, or be shamed for what they were doing on the internet in future years.  

The traffic jam caused by the entourage of cars were not pleasing the tram 12 or 18 drivers.  There were lots of tram bells ringing to no avail.  For these Pernik kids, this was their moment and that tram is going to have to wait, no matter what.  

This guy was the 'I'm too cool to be with the rest of the group' from Pernik.  While he wanted to be participate in prom, he obviously did not want to walk with the others.  

The 10 tram has moved about 100 meters in 15 minutes, and is ticked off by the Mercedes driver parking in front of the tracks.  

The owner of the Corvette was proud to show off his engine to the other luxury car drivers.  

Allegedly, a 28 year old man in the blue shirt escorting his 19 year old girlfriend to the prom.  

These two were my favorite, because it's 6pm on Sunday, and they've done a half a bottle of Jack Daniel's each.  But, it isn't enough for one of them, as he has to take the bottle to play board games with Boris and Marinella.  Please note these two weren't rude, just funny.  

The boys realizing they've lost the rest of the group, and cannot share in the festivities at Boris and Marinella's.  Allegedly, they're calling their friends, but like Owen, appear lost even though their friends are about 100 meters away. 

Since the phone didn't work, they managed to get it together and politely asked a guy for directions.  He showed them the correct way to get to Marinella's to play board games.  

Board games are over, and now it's time for the next stop, which is probably to take pictures in front of Parliament and Nevski before the sun goes down, then to a club to dance the night away. 

The first to enter, and the last to leave.  These ladies are showing their peeps they're going to take care of their tribe for the night, but forgot to stop at Avanti for discounted spirits and wine.

Leaving Journalist Square

This BMW made up for itself by some great balloon coverage.  

The red car could have racing stripes, but no balloons sadly.  

I wonder how much it is to rent a Corvette for the night with a driver.  

The entourage leaves Journalist Square around 7:30pm, and luckily didn't come back for alcohol around 1am to wake me up.  Asante Sanaa prom, and until next May 2016.

Fury Road: Sofia Style

This is a blog issue which I expect may cause some death and anger, as I will be writing about all the insane drivers in Bulgaria.  If I somehow die or get into a major accident after this blog issue is written, I blame 'insert you most hated rich guy here driving a Mercedes, Audi, or Porshe' or a driver from the Sofia oblast driving a 1995 Volkswagen Polo.

When driving in the Balkans, here are some tips I have followed that have helped me out and kept my sanity:

1.  At anytime, you could be killed by a 15-20 year old Volkswagen Polo or Opel:  

That's right people.  The average age of a car in Bulgaria is around 10 years old, which means Sport Skoda, aka my car, is still young and vibrant.  Some of the worst drivers own 15-20 year old cars, and spend a lot of time recreating Formula 1 scenes on the streets of Sofia.  On the way to watch Mad Max, George and I noticed a 15+ year old Volkswagen Polo weave past two Mercedes, almost break an axle, and then almost knock out a tram while going about 80 km/h in the center of Sofia, or about 50 miles per hour. 

A few years back, I saw a old VW Polo driven by a 20ish year old man smash into some lady turning left, as he was trying to pass 6 cars going about 100 km/h in a 50 km/h zone.  Luckily, the lady with two kids were uninjured, but the VW drove off as if nothing happened.  This Easter, this VW Polo driver made all the news channels for his creative driving skills.

Pretty much, if you see one of these cars with a male driver behind the wheel chain smoking coming at you at a high rate of speed, you never know what might happen.  Just hope you get by unscathed, but accidents deaths number between 550-700 per year, with thousands injured.

Lesson Learned:  Old cars are high speed death traps ready to kill you at any moment.  

2.  You can drive whatever speed you want to drive:  

Pretty much, you can drive however you want, whenever you want, and there is a 99% chance nothing will happen to you, unless by some miracle there is a policeman who actually decides to do something besides check car documents and smoke cigarettes.

So, if you want to drive 30 kph in a 90 kph zone and create a 30 car traffic jam behind you?  No problem here.  Drive 180 kph in a 90 kph zone?  No problem.  Pass on the right?  No problem.  Zig Zag through traffic to be one car ahead and cause two accidents?  No problem.  Drive 250-300 kph on the highway?  No problem, as the driver in the link in one of the many to drive so fast on the highways here and not get a ticket.  Ever.  This motorcycle driver proves you can go over 200 km/h

Knock out and kill someone on the highway?  Might be a problem, depending on your income.  If your accident makes the news, and then you're definitely in trouble.

Lesson learned:  Drive at whatever speed you want, and tell the others to suck it.  

3.  Stop Signs Are Optional in Local Neighborhoods:

Stop signs?  Optional depending on the intersection, any some intersections on the smaller streets do not have them.  People have an idea who should get the right of way in these instances, but sometimes both parties feel they have the right of way, especially more expenisive cars.  In Iztok, there have been numerous fender benders as no one really bothers to stop at intersections without stop signs.

Long ago in August 2009, there was this accident in from of the Azerbaijani Embassy involving a 'businessman' and some poor person not realizing he needed to stop.  Why?  Because there is no stop sign there, even after this accident.  Here is what you need to know about this accident.

1.  If you check out the Googles Map site for this intersection, there is only about 100 meters maximum on Metodi Popov between Charles Darwin and Metodi Popov.  That is about 343 feet, or 0.06 of a mile for those imperial measurement users.
2.  The Mercedes flipped a Toyota SUV crossing Metodi Popov from Charles Darwin.
3.  Think about the rate of speed the Mercedes driver was traveling at on this minor side street to flip a Toyota SUV like this.
4.  The Mercedes driver totaled this car, but had a new car in ______________.  (my answer below)

Lesson learned:  Stop at all intersections without a stop sign in Bulgaria, as stop signs are optional in Bulgaria.  

Mercedes knocked this car into entrance of the Azerbaijani Embassy.  This probably put the price of natural gas up a few hundred leva.  

The large rounds stones could not protect the embassy from a businessman driving a Mercedes.   My bet is the Mercedes driver had a new car by Monday, and the delay was that this happened on a Friday afternoon.

4.  If you drive an expensive luxury car, you can park pretty much anywhere: 

If you have an expensive car, you can not only drive fast and furious, but you can be a total jerk and park wherever you would like.  In the picture below, this Porshe SUV from Plovdiv is parked directly in front of a mall entrance.  Why?  Because they have lots of money and simply don't'care what you think.  If this was a 20 year old VW Polo, it would have been towed, but luxury vehicles get to do whatever they want without penalty.

Lesson learned:  A few rich people really suck.  

At the entrance to the Sofia Ring Mall.  This person is very special.  

In the next picture, this business lady parked her very large Mercedes SUV in a spot that was not a spot, and threatened action on the people daring to call the police because this is where she parked her car.   

Mercedes parked illegally

Woman who can't be bothered to park legally and shamed rightfully on social media.

5.  Merging is a skill that makes you a big wimp:  
In the United States and Canada, merging is a process that everyone learns to do and respects.  In Bulgaria and the Balkan Peninsula, merging pretty much means you suck at driving or you're a gigantic wimp if you let someone merge in front of you.  Despite what would make logical sense when merging off a ramp, drivers will either not let you in on purpose, and make you force your way in with lots of honking.  Other times, they speed up to get into the space meant for merging.  In construction zones, rather than taking turns, people will create 8 lanes which will merge into one, and one driver will try to plow through 30 cars just to be first, and create accidents.

Lesson learned:  Merging means you suck, which means you must furiously plow ahead to prove you can drive.

6.  Ordinarily nice people turn into raving maniacs when driving:

For some reason I still cannot figure out, some of the nicest people turn into stark raving maniacs when driving.  There seems to be a belief that one must be a Mad Max driver in order to survive in the streets here.  There tends to be a lot of road rage, such as this incident in Mladost.  Rather than waiting patiently and have the traffic jam go smoother, drivers cause massive traffic jams where a 5 minute wait turns into a 20-30 minute rage fest.

One time when I was on quest for a fun filled evening of Swan Lake, I saw two driver duke it out in the center during the middle of a snowstorm.  They both got a few punches in, probably left a black eye or good bruise on the cheek, then hopped back into their cars and drove off.  No police report done.

The two videos below give you road virgins an idea how one drives here in Sofia.  You can fast forward through the boring parts.

Lesson Learned:  Pretty much anything is legal here in Sofia, even though there are rules.

Driving in Sofia

Passing on a 2 lane road in the Mountains

7.  At least Bulgaria is not the Middle East, Africa, or China:

That being said, there are a lot worse places to drive, even though people here think Bulgaria is probably not the best place to drive.  For those in the USA, you get why I have to behave myself when I drive in Buffalo in the summer.  Hope you enjoyed this issue.  Remember in case I die, you can blame the Plovdiv Porshe SUV driver whose picture I put in the blog, or an 20 year old VW Polo driver who took out my car.  

Cine Grand Tsar Lounge

Chestita Baba Marta!  I hope all of you have martenitzas and are ready for the coming of spring.  Some of you have experienced one cold, bitter winter full of six feet snow drifts, -30 degree temperatures, and are completely ready to tell winter to 'suck it' and move forward to spring flowers.  D.C peeps had their usual 'let's close because we cannot plow roads' and have 3-8 fake snow days, while Sofia peeps have had a somewhat normal winter instead of the 'let's piss off all skiers and be 55-60 all winter long'.

During the winter season before Baba Marta announces it's time for spring, it is a time to chill, be fat and fabulous, and do winter activities.  In the U.S., I would be watching tons of hockey, but my team really sucks, and the Olympics last year were my only chance to watch decent hockey on T.V.  Instead of hockey, we watch movies at the cinema.

In fact, George and I have gotten so bad that we treat ourselves to the Cine Grand TSAR Lounge to watch movies, and only go some other theater if we have to.    We will watch anything in the TSAR Lounge, except for 50 Shade of Grey (I am determined to watch 50 Shades once in front of straight people and laugh at all the bad crap some gay guy already wrote about and did a much better job writing about, yet didn't get paid for like E.L. James)

What?!?!? my American and Bulgarian friends might ask?  How can you afford all that money on movies and go on average once per week, especially the TSAR Lounge?  The answer is simply elementary as Sherlock Holmes would say.  Here is why the TSAR Lounge is such a deal, and so worth going to:

CINE Grand TSAR Lounge:  The only place to go see a movie.

Reasons 1-3 for Cine Grand TSAR Lounge:  

1.Only 32 Seats in the theater. 

2. Tickets cost between 14-16 BGN( 7-8 Euros, or about 8-9 USD). 

That's right people.  Tickets for this theater are expensive for Bulgaria, but cheap for the U.S. and Western Europe.  In Seattle, I went to one of these theaters, and paid $25 USD to see Bridesmaid in a fancy lounge seat.  It was a blast to sit in the seat, but with a snack my movie bill was around 40 USD.  When my cousin and I took my nephews to the movies a few years back, we paid $65 USD for tickets and snacks, and this was for a 2pm showing of the Smurfs with two kids tickets being bought.  

At TSAR Lounge, you pay 14-16 BGN for a movie.  For  ... a ... reclining ... seat.  

3.  We are a 15 minute walk from the City Center (Shitty Center) Mall

Cine Grand is centrally located in the middle of the Lozenets neighborhood between old, established, classy Lozenets, and the over-the-top, mafia, I need to prove myself, new money, and home to many 21-25 year old business women driving Porshes and Audis in new Lozents by the U.S Embassy and Kempenski Hotel.  

Yes, we are a 15 minute walk from this theater.  No driving needed.  No dealing with idiot Bulgarian drivers with 15 year elderly, small, deathtrap Opel/Volkswagen cars being Formula 1 drivers racing to the next place to prove they have a penis.  No dealing with Audi, Mercedes drivers who think their shit doesn't smell so they can literally get away with anything, including killing a baba crossing in a crosswalk(you laugh, but it happens).   The grocery store and CINE Grand theater have given this mall some life for grocery shopping and movies, and people come to this mall just to go to the theater, plus it helps it is at a metro stop.   

A few of our lovely lady friends visiting the TSAR Lounge

Reasons 4-6 to Visit Cine Grand Tsar Lounge:

4.  They give you a free bottle of water

5.  They give you a free glass of orange juice or champagne

6.  They put free 3-D glasses at your seat to watch a 3D movie

That's right people, for the price of your movie ticket, you get all three things for FREE.  Let me repeat that, FREE!   So instead of paying an extra 3-4 BGN for glasses and water, we get it for free.  Most times, we get there to enjoy the free glass of champagne before the movie starts.  Being raised by my grandmother, I'm all about free stuff.  Free is good.  :)

Baba Marta even likes it:  this is us with martenizas on from last year enjoying the seat reclining.  Now, I always take my shoes off, and pretend like I'm at home watching a movie.  

Reasons 7-9 to visit the TSAR Lounge at CINE Grand:

7.  You can order food and drinks and they deliver it to your seat.

Correct, you have a waiter who will brink you snacks, drinks, and alternative drinks to your seat for a reasonable price.  My favorite is bring a glass of white wine for 6 BGN, while others enjoy their popcorn being served in a bowl, not the cardboard container.  

8.  Seats recline

As you can see from the pictures, the seats are awesome, and you can recline as much as you want.  Most times, I am greatly tempted to show up in my pajamas and bring a blanket.  While I have never done this for the looks I might get from other theater attendees, I may just start doing it once I turn 40 and say F it, I can do what I want people.  

9.  Free laughs at Indian English

CINE Grand is an Indian company running cinemas in Bulgaria, and some of the English used is hysterical.  The movie ticket says on it: "We thanks for business.".  While if you ever go with me to TSAR Lounge, I will tell George quite loudly to put his camera away and stop pirating the movie on his phone when they are showing the advertisement silently saying pirating films is criminal.  Saying this is like Charlie Brown, Lucy, and the football.  It never gets old, always gets a good laugh, and supports the U.S. Embassy policy of combating piracy.  

In fact, you can recline all the way back if you'd like.  

So the next time you want to see a movie in Sofia, you should definitely go to the TSAR Lounge.  Totally worth the price, and we're happy to go with anyone, anytime to the TSAR Lounge.  Treat yourself, but don't mind me if I bring my Sabres onesy blanket.  

Uzbekistan Part 2

Samarkand and Bukhara, Uzbekistan:  

Uzbekistan was a really fascinating place to visit, and I'm sorry it took so long for me to write the second installment of this blog.  Not writing about Uzbekibekibeki is  due to me being a total slacker, plus I did not want to steal the limelight from Islam Karimov's daughter, Gulnara.  Gulnara Karimova got headlines in August again for being a jailed princess being held captive by her dictator dad, who seems jealous of her.  Despite being 77 years old, Islam Karimov wants to run again to be president, which works out well when all parties allowed support your policies were 'elected' to parliament.  What Gulnara fails to say is she was equally repressive toward Uzbek citizens, but only saying something now that she is under 'house arrest'.  Ah, such minor details.  

Since the year 2015 looks likes there will not be any surprising headlines coming out from one of the top 10 corrupt countries in the world, I'm cool to publish this blog.   

Gulnara is probably not looking as fabulous as she is in this picture, or in her music videos, such as this one with Julio Iglesias below, which is great background music for reading this blog issue.  

Bukhara and Samarkand are two places I probably never would have gotten to visit if it were not for Matt.  Because of the location and how reclusive Uzbekistan can be, Samarkand and Buhkara are not the easist to visit, but I think they're worth getting to at some point in your lifetime.  Samarkand has made top 50 places you have to visit, but both cities are former Silk Road cities that have been restored to what they used to look like.  Despite the July heat, I was honored to have two great Russian tour guides who led Matt and I around both towns and discovered some of the history.  

Samarkand:  
A city of about 500,000 settled somewhere in the 7th century B.C., it is the second largest city in Uzbekistan, and about a two hour high speed train ride from Tashkent, and very near the Tajikistan border.  A UNESCO heritage site, it is one of Uzbekistan's most glorious cities, and was at it's glory during the 14th-15th centuries during the Timurid era, who based their capital in Samarkand.    

Gur Emir Mausoleum:  The final resting place of Timur, also known as Tamalane.  He was the founder of the Timurid dynasty, which ruled all of Central Asia, Persia, and parts of India and Saudi Arabia in the 14th and 15th centuries.  This was built after his death in 1404.  

Gur Emir Mausoleum

Gur Emir Mausoleum

Gur Emir Mausoleum Tomb

Gur Emir Mausoleum

Gur Emir Mausoleum

In front of the Samarkand Registan.  This was the heart of ancient Samarkand during the Timurid era.  There was a public square, where people gathered to hear proclamations from the emir, and to witness executions.  It is surrounded by three madrasahs.  

Sher-dor Madrasah, Lion's Gate, Samarkand Registan.  

Close up view of the Lions

Courtyard of the Madrasah where people sell souvenirs in the shade. 

Courtyard of the Madrasah

Sher-dor Madrasah

Ulug Beg Madrasah

Tilya Kori Madrasah

Babalicious Uzbek Style:  Yes, it's a fuzzy picture to protect innocent Uzbek babas.  :)

Ceiling inside of of the rooms of the madrasah

Ulug Beg Madrasah

Uzbek tourists who wanted a picture with Matt and I.  In Uzbekistan, I got the five star treatment, and was treated really well.  Note how Coca Cola gets everywhere, but in Uzbekistan there are only certain sizes of Coke and Pepsi.  

Bibi Khayim Mosque:  Built between 1399 and 1404, this was one of the Islamic world's biggest mosques which crumbled for centuries before collapsing in an 1897 earthquake

Bibi Khayim Mosque

Ulug Beg Observatory:  Ulug Beg was the grandson of Amir Timur, king and renowned astronomer in the 15th century was way ahead of his contemporaries in his astronomical studies.  This was his observatory where he made observatory, where he made his scientific observations.  He spent more time studying science than being a king.  The sexton was placed underground to protect it from earthquakes, and Ulug Beg's calculations were fantastic.  

Outside of the Ulug Beg Observatory restored:   it was destroyed by religious fanatics in 1449, who thought their king was not being virtuous by studying the astronomy and practicing Islam. It was rediscovered in 1908.  

Rug Making:  One of the places where silk rugs are made in Samarkand.  Depending on the rug, it can take 3-18 months to make a rug, and it is all hand stitched.  Girls work by hand and are paid a decent salary at this facility.  It has been visited by many dignitaries, including Hillary Clinton.  

Shah-i-Zinda:  The tombs of Timur and his family.  Built between the 11th and 19th centuries, this place has mausoleums and some of the best tile work I've ever seen.  

Shah-i-Zinda

Shah-i-Zinda

Shah-i-Zinda

Babalicious at Shah-i-Zinda

Bukhara:  

This is the fifth largest city in Uzbekistan, settled in the 5th century B. C., and also a UNESCO World Heritage site for being one of the cities on the Silk Road.  To get there, Matt got us a private car, which drove us the 180 kilometers between the two cities.  The road between the two cities would make one proud to drive on any main road in Bulgaria, and easily beats how badly Goodrich Road had to get before they did any repairs at all.  Enjoy the pictures and the commentary.

Caravan pitstop along the road between Bukhara and Samarkand from the 11th century.  

The remains of the caravan stop along the road.  

While this was one billboard along the road, there are tons of propaganda slogans like this one throughout Uzbekistan, just like the communist days, but better.  They all state something like how working for the state can make Uzbekistan great.  Pretty much, this is same similar nonsense Fox News presents as news.  

One of the canals in Bukhara.  

The Lyab-i Hauz pond compound.  Built in the 16th and 17th Centuries, this is one of the few pond areas the Soviets did not destroy from Bukhara during their reign.  The two phoenixes are an important symbol to the Lyab-i Huaz, which is where commerce happened in this Silk Road city.  

Up close view of the phoenixes.  

The Mullah Nasreddin on his donkey.  From the 13th century, he is known in tales for being wise, funny, or foolish, but there is always an anecdote with his tales.  

The old markets of Bukhara, selling mostly touristic stuff, and not Silk Road materials.  

Magoki Attori Mosque:  The oldest mosque in Central Asia dating from the 12th century, and the name means mosque in the pit.  Before the mosque was built, this site had the remains of Buddhist Temple, and a Zoroastrian temple.  It was used by Jews as a synagogue in the evenings until the 16th century.  It was destroyed by an earthquake in 1860 and it remains were dug up in 1930.  

Magoki Attori Mosque

Magoki Attori Mosque

Mir-i Arab Madrasah

Mir-i Arab Madrasah

Mir-i Arab Madrasah, which was built in 1535-1536 and still operates for boys and girls.  Also a rare oddity, since Islam Karimov isn't exactly the most religious guy, yet sees the importance of Islam in keeping his job.  

Tokis of Bukhara:  These are the marketplaces where money, jewels, and silk were exchanged.

Kalon Minaret.  Built in the 1127, over 45 meters tall, and surrounded by 208 columns and 288 domes.  A very impressive site that I was lucky to be at by myself, Matt, and the tour guide for the most part.

The only other tourists in the square, who disappeared quickly due to the heat.  

Matt and I got the Owen Davis treatment and the kid wanted his picture taken with us.

Kalon Mosque, rebuilt to its former glory.  

At the Kalyan Minaret from the 12th century, which because of the heat meant Matt and I were the only ones there in July.  The minaret was the only thing not destroyed by Genghis Khan as he razed the rest of the city in his conquests of Central Asia and many other places.  

Because of the heat, I had the courtyard ALL to myself.

Really, there was NO ONE else there.  

One of the insides of the columns surrounding the Kalon Mosque

Walls of the Bukhara Ark Fortress

Ark Fortress of Bukhara:  Built in the 5th century, this is where the Emir lived with his family, and most of the city resided in the old times.  The Emir resided there and it was used as a fortress until the Soviets burned down the wooden sections of it in 1920.  

Gate to the Ark Fortress

Inside the Ark Fortress

Local street with a Spiderman costume near the Ark Fortress

View of the of Bukhara from the fortress entrance.  It was also a great place with shade.  

Matt's hotel room at Hotel Amelie.  It seems someone at the hotel had a sense of humor when they gave the straight man this room for the night, hehehehe.  

Yes, there is an Uzbek dish called Jiz, which made me act like Beavis and Butthead and giggle hysterically for 30 minutes.  

Sunset from the cool restaurant serving Jiz. 

Here is what Jiz looks like. It was really delicious.

The warning on Matt's gate to his house.  God bless the U.S.A. for put such warnings in a place where a moving gate is the least of your worries.  

Amelie's first love of the Afghan wool hand stitched rug with silk embroidery stitched in by hand I bought in Bukhara.  While it may be the centerpiece of our living room, NO ONE is allowed to be on the rug besides the cat of she gets really upset.   In Bukhara, I paid $300 USD for this rug, but George and I saw something similar in Vienna sell for $1800 Euros